| |
Subject |
Author |
Date Posted |
Forum
|
 |
RE: Is This Possible?
E-10 is becoming prevalent many places, and it will generally cost you about 10% in fuel mileage. I was surprised to find it here in NC when I arrived in early Oct. My car gets 25 mpg now, down from 27-28mpg on non-ethanol gas. I've heard similar comments from many others.
Don't want to highjack this thread, but E-10 can't hurt your gas mileage by more than 3% (that's the reduced BTU content). There are also studies (conducted by the University of Minnesota and the University of North Dakota Ethanol MPG Tests) that indicate that mpg may actually go up due to the better combustion that the ethanol provides. After all, that's why it's being used in many areas.
This thread is an excellent example of people blaming reduced mpg on the wrong thing.
|
427435
|
12/02/08 09:03pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Winter Travel
I agree with a couple of the posts above to just head south from Minnesota. There are plenty of Walmarts and Targets along the way where you can outfit the MH with bedding etc. Just bring a couple of suitcases with you with clothes and toiletries. When we bought our MH several years ago, the DW wanted to outfit with new dishes, pots & pans, silverware, etc. so we didn't have to move stuff back and forth. Probably cheaper to just drive south (even with the $ to outfit it) than the extra miles to go back home and then to Florida. And a heck of lot less stress.
Biggest problem might be the tools you want to bring, but a couple hundred $ at Sears go a long way there also.
If you happen to be buying it from a Rochester, MN dealer, PM me.
|
427435
|
12/02/08 04:51pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Gas vs Diesel/ better gas mileage??
Ok,
We have a beautiful 35 ft. fifth wheel and f350 diesel truck. I have been trying to convince my husband to get rid of both and buy a class a. He won't buy anything unless it's a diesel, but price is an issue too. What is the gas mileage of a 35 ft gas motor pulling a toad? Could be a class c also. We have a honda civic that we could pull behind it. Just trying to find out positives of gas motor vs. diesel if there are any.
Thanks
Vickie
You're getting the usual gas vs diesel stuff. How about telling us how you use your current RV and why you want to get rid of it for a class A.
That being said, at 35' and price also being an issue for us, we bought a gas MH (see signature). After 4 years, we're very happy and glad we didn't spend the extra money for a diesel. Our unit rides and handles well (after new shocks and an alignment), pulls a 5000 lb toad, and is easy (and cheap) to maintain. Also goes under a 12' door so it can be stored in my shed.
|
427435
|
12/01/08 03:51pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
 |
RE: Firearms & the Class A
They are required to be on a rack in the rear window.
Dave
Now that's funny!!! :B :B :B :B :B :B
|
427435
|
12/01/08 12:23pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: V10 - what/who can I believe?
However, I've never heard anyone (yet) talk about a 362 HP Ford V10 in their motorhome for any model year.
The confusion comes from people like the OP that doesn't put his rig in his signature and posters like you that make statements like the one above (and posters like me that thought class A).
Contrary to your statement above, Ford does use a 362 hp V10 in motorhomes. Maybe not your class C but, the last time I checked, class A's are considered motorhomes.
My original advice stands. Fill the oil to the full mark on the dipstick (class A, B or C). If you don't have unusually high oil consumption, forget about it.
|
427435
|
12/01/08 11:09am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: V10 - what/who can I believe?
The 5-speed transmission started in 2005 - mine has it. However, I've never heard anyone (yet) talk about a 362 HP Ford V10 in their motorhome for any model year.
Now I understand why the OP is confused. There's something fishy going on here with mis-information out in the field that seems strange for such a simple issue as oil capacity of a Ford truck.
You're the one that's mis-informed. If your 2005 MH has a 5 speed transmission, it's because it was built on a 2006 model year Ford chassis (yes, that's possible---even if the chassis build date is 2005). And if you do have a 5 speed transmission, you also have a 3 valve V10 with 362 hp.
Check these official Ford links:
Ford Specs Put in the model year and click on "Class A"-----that'll take you to the links below.
2005 Ford MH Specs
2006 Ford MH Specs
|
427435
|
12/01/08 08:12am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: V10 - what/who can I believe?
I have been told that Ford never released the 3V V10 for motorhome use. This was for the 2007 E350/450 chassis. Maybe that explains some of the confusion?
I don't think that's true. The 3 valve is part of the 2006 MH upgrades that included an increase to 362 hp and a 5-speed automatic transmission.
|
427435
|
11/30/08 10:02pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: New goodyear RV670 19.5 class A tire purchase
Call your Goodyear dealers. I saved $500 by calling a rural dealer about 50 miles away from me. Worth the drive.
|
427435
|
11/30/08 06:13pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: V10 - what/who can I believe?
If I had a late model V10 (3 valve, 362 hp), I would fill it to the full mark on the dipstick. Then I would monitor oil consumption. If it didn't use more than a quart in 3000 miles of MH duty, I would continue to use the dipstick mark.
If oil consumption was a lot higher----say a quart in 1000 miles----I wouldn't add any oil and watch the oil level during the next 1000 miles. If it continued to use oil, I would visit the Ford dealer. If it stopped using oil, I would keep it a quart short of the full mark the next time I changed oil.
|
427435
|
11/30/08 02:37pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: changing oil on generator
Maybe we're over-thinking this! It's oil!! your Gen. will not fly to pieces,whatever oil you use.
Perhaps-----especially if you don't use your genset a lot. However, most air-cooled engines don't have the design life that most water-cooled engines do. I wonder if there are many air-cooled gensets that have 1500 hours on them. I suspect the design life of these engines is probably less than 1500 hours.
On the other hand, I've got a commercial lawn mower with a Kohler air-cooled engine that has 2500 hours on it. It runs on Mobil 1 15w-50 oil and gets used harder than most gensets ever do.
|
427435
|
11/30/08 11:22am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: changing oil on generator
For MANY years Onan recommended straight 30 OR 10W-30 oil in their gasser gensets. I personally used 10W30 Castrol in mine instead of buying Onan's "labeled" 10W-30.
No idea what is the recommended oil weight for their present gensets though.
Many other air-cooled engine manufactures do/did the same. As I posted above, they were concerned about multi-vis dino oils that would thin down with use-----so they would recommend straight weight 30 oil at temps above 50 degrees. With the wider range synthetics (that don't thin down), you can have the best of both-----a 0w or 5w oil for easy starting and quick cold temp lube and a 40 or 50 weight oil at operating temp. I'm sure a good synthetic 10w-30 would work too, but that's hard to find these days. Most of the synthetics are wider range than 10w-30.
I've always used Mobil 1 15w-50 in air-cooled engines (genset and commercial lawn mowers), but I don't start them when it's freezing either. If I did, I would use 0w-40.
|
427435
|
11/30/08 11:09am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Transmission temp
427435:
I guess I didn't make it clear.....the tranny temp gauge has nothing to do with my motorhome manufacturer.
The gauge is aftermarket....installed by the indie shop....and putting the sensor in/on the return line is the way the gauge people want it installed.
The problem with that is that you never know the maximum temp of the oil----which is the most important. However, if you know it's in the return line, I guess you just need to lower the temp at which you start to let up on the tranny or pull to the side of the road to cool down. I've got 2 transmission temp gauges---one installed in a test port on the transmission (I put this one on first) and the other from the scan gauge that reads from where ever the engine/transmission computer reads. The scan gauge reads 15-30 degrees higher depending on the load (it responds much quicker to temp changes than the test port location does).
|
427435
|
11/30/08 09:19am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: changing oil on generator
However, a 0w-40, a 5w-40 or a 15w-50 synthetics would be a better choice----especially in Texas.
You and I are in agreement. My point was exactly what you have said. That regardless of dino oil or synthetic 5w-30 oil may be to thin and the better choice may be a 0w-40, 5w-40 or 15w40/15w-50 synthetic oil---especially in a hot climate like Texas.
By the way 427435 is your user name in reference to a corvette engine size? Just curious. If so mine would be 67427390.
Yes. It's in a 67 Corvette that was my first new car. Still own it. Here's a picture of it and my last new car. :B
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t178/427435/CoolVettes.jpg
|
427435
|
11/30/08 09:06am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: OIl in 2000 V10
An odd size battery that sells in low volume----well I understand. Oil, however, has gotten even more complicated in recent years. The latest API requirements include reduced zinc content. This is good for catalytic converter life but not so good for bearing life. As a result, Ford (and others) have created additional specs that require other additives (not required by API) that continue to provide good bearing life.
There's enough demand for these oils that the good oils will meet both the API and the special specs. It quite possible that the NAPA oils do meet these specs, but you should check the small print on the back. The cheaper oils may not. Pay now or pay later.
|
427435
|
11/29/08 09:17pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Transmission temp
UTAHRON: Yep. But that's the way the mfgr wants it installed. I guess the better part of the two is to find out what the tranny temp is going BACK into the transmission.
Gotta trust somebody...............
But you have to consider where the "somebody" is coming from. Years ago we used to use engine temp gauges on farm tractors that gave actual temperatures. When the temps got to 212 on a hot day under heavy load (which is fine) customers would complain. We solved it by replacing the gauge with one that had color bands on it. The green band went to about 230!!!
I suspect your MH manufacturer may have been using the same logic on your transmission temp gauge. It's better to know what the hottest oil temp is and then keep it under 230. A lot of owners would probably get excited if they saw a reading of 220, however.
|
427435
|
11/29/08 09:09pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: changing oil on generator
I also have an Onan 5500 watt gas generator in my MH.
According to the owners manual it says that 5W-30 oil is good for a temperature range of -20degF to 50degF.
15w-40 is good for a temperature range of 10degF to 100degF
Also if temeratures are consistently above 32degF 30wt oil is recommended.
This is their recommendation for dino oils. A 5w-30 dino oil will shear down to a 5w-15 or 5w-20 oil after 50-75 hours of operation which is too thin for higher temps in an air-cooled engine with its somewhat looser clearances. A 5w-30 synthetic (like the Mobil 1 that the OP was looking for) doesn't shear down much (if at all).
However, a 0w-40, a 5w-40 or a 15w-50 synthetics would be a better choice----especially in Texas.
|
427435
|
11/29/08 09:03pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Basement AC
Our 35U Itasca also has it under the bed. The "wisshhh" sound of the air coming out of the ceiling vents is louder than the compressor (and the sound of the air isn't loud).
|
427435
|
11/29/08 08:56pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Changing Brake Fliud on W22
I bought a gallon of brake fluid from a Fleet Farm store. It wasn't much more $ than 2 quarts. In Canada, check out the Canadian Tire store for prices. Too much is better than too little when you're flushing brakes.
|
427435
|
11/29/08 11:03am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Transmission temp
A scangauge isn't much help on a 1988 MH!!!!
|
427435
|
11/29/08 10:59am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: OIl in 2000 V10
2001 V-10.
I use NAPA 10-30...or any brand that states "Meets or Exceeds Manufacturer Requirements". What's the latest standard? SL? CHANGING the oil & filter is the important thing no matter what (good product) you use. 3,000 for fossil, 6,000 for syn.
I use fossil 10-30 in all my vehicles...truck, car, motorhome. When fossil becomes just as pricey as syn, I'll convert to syn.
Don't forget the grease, either.
Careful----Ford has a special spec for the V10's. Read your operator's manual and be sure the oil you buy has that spec on the label. Meeting the latest API spec is not enough.
|
427435
|
11/29/08 09:01am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
